Stock Cars Review

1. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal on the battery. Locate the alternator, which is located on the front, left side of the engine and will have a belt attached to it and which drives it when the car is running.
2. Remove the belt that drives the alternator. Remove the small plastic cap that covers and protects the tensioner. Place the appropriately sized Allen tool in the tensioner and turn it clockwise or counterclockwise--the direction will vary, depending on the year of the car. Slide the belt off the tensioner once it is loosened and maneuver it out of the engine bay.
3. Unbolt the alternator from the pivot bracket with a socket and ratchet. Since the belt holds the alternator tight, it is only held on with one bolt on the pivot bracket. It is quite easy to remove.
4. Disconnect the electrical connections that are fastened to the rear of the alternator. Draw a diagram of how and where the wires are attached or take a photograph so that the wires are re-fastened to the back of the alternator in the correct orientation. If they are installed incorrectly, it could damage the electrical system.
5. Remove the nut that holds the pulley onto the old alternator. The best way to remove it is to use an impact wrench. Place the appropriately sized socket on the impact wrench and then spin the nut off with the impact wrench. Remove the pulley, install it on the new alternator and then install the nut back on with the impact wrench.
6. Reconnect all of the wires to the back of the alternator. Reinstall the alternator on the pivot bracket and tighten the bolt on the bracket. Reinstall the belt and the belt tensioner. Put the plastic cover back on the tensioner. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

1. Remove the two bolts that secure the water outlet housing to the Audis engine with a socket and ratchet. With the bolts removed, lift the housing off the engine to expose the thermostat.
2. Note the positioning of the thermostat inside the engine. When you replace the thermostat, you must install it with the same positioning. Pull the old thermostat out of the engine and plug the hole with a shop rag.
3. Remove the old gasket from the engine with a wire brush or metal scraper. Do the same for the old gasket material stuck to the bottom of the water outlet housing.
4. Pull out the shop rag from the engine and install the new thermostat into position. Place a new gasket over the thermostat.
5. Place the water outlet housing onto the gasket and secure both to the engine with the socket and ratchet.

1. Locate your Mercedes SmartKey, which locks, unlocks and starts the vehicle.
2. Press the unlock button on your SmartKey. The unlock button has an open padlock on it. If you press the button once, the drivers door and the fuel filler door open. Pressing the unlock button twice will also unlock the fuel filler door as well as the passenger doors.
3. Press the right side of your fuel filler door to open it.

Fuel Pump Replacement
1. Before attempting to remove the old fuel pump, disconnect the negative battery cable using a 12-mm socket. Place a block under the front wheels to prevent rolling. Locate the electric fuel pump under the rear floor panel. Jack up the left rear of the car and support it on a jack stand. This will provide plenty of room for you to remove the fuel pump.
2. Remember that gas is highly flammable, so keep a fire extinguisher nearby. Using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the intake and outlet hoses from the fuel pump. Use bolts to plug up the inlet and outlet hoses to prevent gas from leaking.
3. Using an 8-mm socket, disconnect the negative and positive wires from the fuel pump. Unbolt and remove the fuel pump and vibration pads with a 14-mm socket. Compare the old fuel pump to the new one to ensure that you are installing the correct replacement part.
4. Install the new fuel pump. Secure it to the Mercedes-Benz 450SL using the 14-mm socket. Connect the brown negative wire to the negative brown terminal and the positive red/black wire to the red positive terminal on the fuel pump. Using the Phillips screwdriver, connect the inlet and outlet hoses to the fuel pump. If a secure connection cannot be made, you may need to replace the hose clamps.
5. Remove the jack stand and lower the vehicle to the ground. Reconnect the negative battery cable and start the car. Check under the rear floor panel for fuel leaks.

1. Put on strong, thick work gloves.
2. Pry the trim up with a large flathead screwdriver. Pull the trim off the back glass with your hands.
3. Remove the gasket under the trim by prying it up with the flathead screwdriver and pulling it away from the glass with your hands.
4. Wedge a thin knife between the glass and the frame and move it in and out until the glass separates from the frame. Work your way around the glass until it comes loose.
5. Go into the back seat and push the glass outward from the top. Set a small piece of plywood between the glass and the frame to prop it up.
6. Go outside the car and pull the glass off the rear of the vehicle.

1. Loosen the lugs on the wheels using a 1/2-inch ratchet wrench and lug socket. Place wheel blocks on the opposite end of the vehicle being lifted. Position a hydraulic lift under a structural body point and lift the vehicle. Use a pair of jack stands to secure the vehicle on each side, placing them under structure points.
2. Remove the lugs and place inside the wheel. Slide the wheel under the vehicle as close to the work area as possible for extra security. Remove the four retainer bolts holding the caliper to the wheel assembly using the Allen wrench set. Gently tap the caliper with the rubber mallet to remove from the rotor.
3. Use the C-clamp to push the caliper piston to its full open position while the original brake pads are still installed. Remove the original brake pads by prying the clips off the caliper unit with a screwdriver. Install the new brake pads by fitting them into place and prying the clip onto the indented spots of the caliper.
4. Place the caliper back into position over the rotor. Tighten each retention bolt to the specified torque. Reinstall the wheel and hand tighten the lugs. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle. Use the 1/2-inch ratchet wrench and lug socket to ensure each lug is tightened to the recommended torque. Enter the vehicle and press the brake pedal until it becomes stiff. Repeat for each wheel.

Removing Door Panels
1. Place your large flat head screwdriver into the crease between the wood trim and leather upholstery located on your door panel. Pry off the wood trim on the door panel starting from the back to the front of the vehicle. Place the wood trim aside for reinstallation.
2. Pull down on the two plastic caps underneath the door armrest to remove them. Place the caps aside for reinstallation.
3. Slide your small flat head screwdriver between the plastic and leather crease of the window control plug on the top of the arm rest. Pry upward to remove the plug. Place the control plug aside for reinstallation.
4. Locate and remove two screws underneath the wood trim you removed in Step 1 using your torx t-20 screwdriver. Place the screws aside for reinstallation. Find and unscrew two screws underneath the armrest where you unplugged the two caps in Step 2 using your torx t-20 screwdriver. Find and remove one screw underneath the window plug you detached in Step 3 using your torx t-20 screwdriver.
5. Wedge your fingers between the door panel and the door, starting at the back of the door panel. Move your fingers clockwise down the door panel and pry the panel away from the door.
6. Hold onto the door panel, keeping it close to the door so that the wires connected behind the door panel do not rip out. Look behind the door panel and locate the two wire connections near the speaker and the white plastic piece in the center of the panel that connects to the door handle.
7. Depress both sides of the plastic connector pieces attached to the wires and pull away to release the wires from the door panel, allowing the panel to detach from the door.

1. Inspect the outside edge of the drivers side seat in your Chevy vehicle. Look for the buttons labeled 1 and 2. If your Chevy doesnt have them, it does not have the memory seat feature.
2. Sit in the drivers-side seat and adjust the seat to fit your proportions by pushing the power-seat selector up or down to raise or lower the seat. Push it back or forth to adjust your seat-track position. If your Chevy has electronic lumbar, adjust it using the side lumbar control. as well, which will also be saved into your memory seating position.
3. Press and hold the 1 button. Youll hear a chime in about five seconds notifying you that the memory seat is programmed to the current position.
4. Repeat the process for memory position 2. To recall either position, simply press the 1 or 2 button when you enter the car. The seat will automatically adjust to the programmed position.

1. Remove the coil pack cover with a ratchet. The cover is held on by six bolts.
2. Unplug the coil that needs to be replaced.
3. Remove the coil with a ratchet. The coil is held on by two 10mm bolts. Once you have the bolts removed, pull firmly and the coil will come out.
4. Install the new coil and tighten it with a ratchet.
5. Reconnect the coil connector.
6. Attach the coil pack cover back onto the valve cover and tighten the bolts with a ratchet.

1. Drive the 325is to your garage or a parking lot. Turn the fan on and feel for any air coming out the vents. If there is no air, then the blower motor needs to be replaced. Put the 325is into Park, then engage the parking brake so there is no danger of gear slippage during the repair. Make sure you have room to maneuver around the front of the BMW for the removal process. Turn the BMW off and open the hood and trunk.
2. Go into the trunk of the BMW and disconnect the negative battery cable from the cars battery. The battery is located in the trunk of the 325is for better weight allocation. Go around to the front of the 325is and prop the hood up with the hood prop stick. The blower motor assembly will be mounted with six screws against the rear firewall. Remove the screws with a Phillips-head screwdriver and pull the blow motor assembly off the firewall.
3. Press the pressure clips on either side of the motor and pull the motor from the blower assembly. If the blower motor has burnt out, then there will be a smell of ozone in the air. If the fan has broken, then some of the blades will be snapped off. In either case the blower needs to be replaced. Disconnect the power wire from the rear of the motor and then connect the power wire to a new blower motor.
4. Slide the blower motor into the blower assembly until you hear the clips click. Then screw the assembly back on the firewall. Tighten all the screws down by hand, as high-torque power drivers could crack the assembly. Close the hood and then go around to the trunk to reconnect the negative battery cable. Close the trunk and then turn the BMW 325is on. Turn the fan up and feel for any air. If there is no air flowing, then the power cord was not plugged in flush. Take the blower motor out and reseat the power cord.